Up the Top!

After 4 nights, back along the Mitchell Falls Road we went for the 2 hour journey to the intersection with Kalumburu Road.  Along the way we found the track blocked - by a carton of beer that had scattered all over! We picked up the good cans (about 10) and moved the rest to the side of the road.  Must have been lost by the car which last passed us in the opposite direction.  A little further along another vehicle going in had stopped so we checked he was okay.  He’d picked up a bag of clothes and a sleeping bag from the road.  Seems someone had lost more than just his beer going in!

Nearing the King Edward River we stopped and followed a walking trail which we'd been told ended at an aboriginal art site.  Sure enough we found some really good rock paintings.  It was just a flat area with a scattering of rocks but it was quite a treasure trove once we got exploring.

At the intersection we turned north toward Kalumburu.  It was a really pretty drive with a couple of river crossings (shallow at this time of year) and some pretty rough road in parts.  The 103 km took us 3 hours to drive.

Kalumburu is an Aboriginal mission, a 

'closed community' which tourists must obtain a permit to visit.  We found it quite interesting to see a little of how a community survives in such an isolated location.  It's a very long way from anywhere!  There are services such as medical, aged care, police, primary school and of course the mission (Benedictine) but supplies are flown in.  Those who need to go to cities (eg for high school) fly there.  We had a look around the mission compound which is run entirely by volunteers; we spoke to a woman in the office who told us how it runs.  

We spent the night at the mission's camping ground which was good, then next morning drove as far north as is possible - the Kalumburu coast and specifically McGowan Island and Honeymoon Beach.  Both are beautiful, isolated coastal places with nothing but a campground.  After having some time at Honeymoon Beach we returned to McGowans to camp.

This was one of the most beautiful camps so far.  As you can see the sunsets were spectacular.  There were boab trees and pandanus palms - the campground's not developed at all so you just camp wherever. 

It's a shame there was a group of fishermen and their wives (grey nomads) who ran a generator all day every day to keep their freezers and fridges going!  It was the main reason we left after two nights - that and the arrival of about 12 vehicles and their assorted trailers.  We thoroughly loved the time we had here and chose the right time to leave.